Rheem Heating & Cooling Customer Service Issues

I require assistance in replacing faulty flame roll-out switches on a Rheem rooftop heating/cooling unit, specifically model UKKA-A060JK13E. I am uncertain about the heat limits as the markings on the switches have worn off. However, I noticed there is an "auxiliary limit setting" of [redacted] degrees F on the panel. I am unsure if this is the correct temperature setting and would like to confirm before purchasing replacement switches. I have tested one switch and confirmed it is faulty.

I own a Rheem Classic XII Imperial Super High Efficiency central air conditioner. It usually cools well, with temperatures dropping to 56 degrees on a hot day. However, I recently had a concerning experience. The unit was running but seemed to struggle, dimming the lights and only blowing out 70 degree air, with the compressor not as loud as usual. After shutting off and restarting, it went back to normal. I once had to add R-22 due to low levels, but I made sure to stay below the listed operating pressures of [redacted] psi high and [redacted] psi low. When it shuts off, there is a sound that makes me wonder if the compressor is running backwards. Are the pressure values on the label maximums or normal operating ranges? If they are maximums, could there be too much R-22 in the system? Any insights are appreciated.

Yesterday, my spouse and I acquired a power-vented gas water heater, 50 gallons in size, from HomeDepot. When we unpacked the appliance at home, we noticed vertical splits at the bottom edges, indicating possible damage during handling. There are also significant dents on the unit, up to 3 inches deep. Although we are willing to overlook the cosmetic imperfections, we are concerned about potential hidden damages that may affect its functionality. Our plumber is scheduled to install it today, but we are considering exchanging it to avoid possible issues in the future. I would appreciate discussing this matter with a technical expert to assess the risks involved. Thank you, Robert.

I do not own a Rheem unit, but I have heard that Copeland supplies variable speed scroll compressors for the RP2024AJVCA heat pumps. As an inventor in need of these compressors and controllers for a project aimed at controlling evaporating pressure through compressor speed, I am seeking to purchase a two-ton capacity pair for a prototype I am working on. I understand these items may be costly, but I am eager to move forward with my project. Please reach out to me, John R. Fairchild CMS, at [redacted] with details on part numbers, pricing, and availability. Additionally, I would appreciate a contact number for a factory representative knowledgeable about the VFD controls to facilitate the integration process. Your assistance in this matter would be greatly appreciated as it could potentially impact many lives positively. Thank you in advance for your help.

I'm disappointed with the performance of my Rheem Heat Pump System. Here is a summary of the issues I have encountered since its installation in May [redacted]: On 5/20/13, Advance Air, LLC replaced the old Lennox system with a Rheem Prestige Series 5-ton/16 SEER 2-stage heat pump system. Over the years, multiple condenser switching valves failed, leading to days without AC and inconvenience. In July [redacted], another valve failure necessitated a replacement condenser unit. In September [redacted], an irreparable leak in the evaporator coil resulted in the replacement of the air handler and coil with aluminum, not copper as in the original unit. Subsequent replacements included the condenser control board in October [redacted] and another condenser switching valve in May [redacted]. The most recent repair in July [redacted] involved changing the condenser compressor. I seek resolution and improved reliability from Rheem. Please contact me at [redacted].

I am experiencing issues with the condenser fan on the outdoor unit. It attempts to start but stops and spins slowly, not completing one full revolution. Initially, I had no output from the board on the black wire, so I connected it directly to voltage, and the fan worked, even the variable speed. I ordered a new board and replaced it, but while it was being replaced, the customer experienced several lockout issues with the same high head code. Every time the fan ran while the unit was cool until the house reached the desired temperature. This morning, I changed the board, but the fan only runs at a slow speed. After checking the condenser and sensor ohms, which were fine, I measured the capacitator wire to the motor, which was at 2 uf, and [redacted] volts measured between the black board output and the blue and white wires. The motor is rated at 230v, although I suspect it's a variable motor and it's not running, which leads me to believe the motor is faulty, possibly causing the board failure. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

I highly advise avoiding Mazzella Mechanical in Boca Raton for your AC needs, especially with Rheem products. My unfortunate experience involved having a 12-month-old, outdated unit installed by them for over $8,[redacted] with hefty profit margins. The AC unit consistently failed due to circuit board issues, requiring frequent service calls during the hot months. The company owner showed poor accountability, neglecting to address the faulty parts, forcing me to seek other repair services. Continuous refrigerant leaks led to multiple refills and a costly replacement of the cooling unit by a different technician. Mazzella Mechanical's lack of responsibility and subpar workmanship make them an unreliable choice for any AC services. Avoid the frustrations I faced and look elsewhere for reputable and dependable HVAC assistance. Bogus

I purchased a Rheem AC unit from Border Air Conditioning on 06/16/[redacted]. The model is RA1648AJ1NA 16 SEER Cube with serial number W[redacted]13. Unfortunately, over the weekend, the unit stopped cooling. I had a Rheem AC technician inspect the unit on Monday, and they found a freon leak within the unit. The technician confirmed that the leak is originating from inside the unit as gas can be heard releasing from within. Additionally, there is an oily film around the top of the unit where the air blows out. I have verified the unit's warranty, have the certificate, and contacted Border Air. They instructed me to remove the damaged part, but since the unit is brand new and hasn't been in service for 90 days, I am requesting a full unit replacement instead of a repair. I appreciate a prompt response. Thank you, Aniceto C. Jr.

I recently spoke to a neighbor who had their water heater serviced, and it now works much better. We have Rheem Tankless water heaters in Los Lunas, NM [redacted]. Currently, it takes a long time to get hot water everywhere. I am looking to diagnose the tankless water heater by following these steps: pressing the remote buttons according to instructions for around 1 minute, then removing 4 screws to take off the front plate and adjusting settings for another 2-3 minutes. This should help with the issue of the water not heating properly due to the already warm temperatures of Los Lunas water in the summer. Any advice on how to proceed would be appreciated.

I had a furnace installed around [redacted] or [redacted]. After researching my issue, it seems I require a flame sensor. To purchase the part, I need the model number, which is listed as 373L. Although the furnace front displays "Rheem Super Quiet 80," the manuals received are labeled "Bryant." I suspect it might be a Rheem as detailed information about the air conditioner, such as the model RGLN07EAMER and serial number FU5D302F[redacted]30, is included next to the burner information. I have checked behind the compartment doors and inside walls but couldn't locate the model number. The Bryant manual references the model 373L, but acquiring a flame sensor requires additional model number figures. If it turns out to be a Rheem, where precisely should I find the model number? I was informed it should be on the left side interior label, but I couldn't locate it there. Could someone provide guidance? It is a downdraft furnace. Thanks, Walt.

Hello, my name is Gerd Hitzegrad, and I am experiencing an issue with my Rheem Split System Heat Pump. The problem lies with the "Aux Heat" function not generating electric heat, despite the thermostat indicating the request. When switched to "EM Heat," the resistive heater works fine. So far, I've replaced both thermostats and the Zone Panel without success. As an electrical/electronic Service Engineer, I aim to troubleshoot and resolve this myself but require an electric schematic diagram, specifically for the Airhandler. Could you possibly email me a copy of it? Your help in solving this would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. - Gerd Hitzegrad

I recently purchased one of your hot water tanks for an emergency installation at an elderly disabled couple's house on a Sunday. After encountering leaks due to faulty factory threading on the nipple, I had to make multiple trips for additional tools and parts to try to fix the tank. Despite the frustrating experience, I remained professional and persevered to resolve the issue. Unfortunately, the time, effort, and extra expenses incurred have left me dissatisfied with the product. The situation has been extremely challenging, but I have taken all necessary steps to address the problem.

After getting a tankless water heater based on recommendations, the installation caused a clanging noise that disrupts our home. It's located in the hallway and disturbs my wife at night. Unable to use hot water until morning due to the noise, I sought solutions but got unhelpful advice from Rheem. Home Depot suggested switching to Westinghouse for better results, which I'm considering after discussing with neighbors online. It seems like the right move based on the feedback I've received and the issues faced with the current water heater.

My house was completed in February [redacted], and a Rheem gas water heater was installed at the time. After just 4 years, it needed to be replaced under warranty, which was done with another Rheem unit. However, now, 6 and a half years later, I am facing the need for a third replacement. This situation is frustrating and disappointing. The current water heater, a 50-gallon gas unit with serial number G[redacted][redacted], is just 6 months past its warranty expiration in June [redacted]. I have always heard good things about Rheem's quality, and I hope this issue can be resolved satisfactorily, starting with this message. Thank you, Marianne Vero. [redacted]

I had a Rheem heat pump with electric backup installed in September of this year, (Model R-410A). The cooling mode was functioning well. However, when switching to Heat mode, regardless of the temperature setting (68, 70, 72), the system ran continuously without shutting down. Cold air was flowing in Heat On mode and warm air in AUX Heat mode, alternating. Even after the thermostat was reprogrammed and replaced, the issue persisted. I also noticed discrepancies in the thermostat temperature readings and performance. It seems like the Heat pump may not be recognizing the mode change. I would appreciate any advice or solutions to resolve this issue. Thank you for your assistance. - Anna M.

I recently had 2 Rheem electric, tank-type water heaters installed by Taylor Plumbing and Mechanical in Atlanta. The units are Rheem Professional Classic series, labeled as PROE50 T2 RH95. While online searches only show them with [redacted]/[redacted] watt elements, mine actually have [redacted]/[redacted] watt elements. This higher wattage usually belongs to the Performance and Performance Plus series with a 9-year warranty, but mine are Classic series with a 6-year warranty. Can someone clarify if I somehow ended up with upgraded elements in my water heaters? Appreciative but curious, Jack W.

I purchased a Rheem heat pump RQPM-A043JK015 with Serial No. W[redacted]43 in November [redacted]. The unit was installed by Atlas-Rooper Heating in Augusta, Georgia. Every time the unit switches to defrosting mode and back to heating, a foul smell ("Dirty Socks Syndrome") fills our house. Despite Atlas-Rooper Heating cleaning the coils, the smell persists. I am seeking advice on how to address this issue. Could there be a design problem with the unit? Can you suggest a specific cleaning method or a feature like UV light to prevent bacteria buildup? We are looking for a solution as I believe others may be experiencing this problem in the Southeast. Thank you for your assistance. Regards, W.D.

Hello, We have a Rheem HVAC system installed in March [redacted]. In [redacted], we replaced the system due to copper components causing Freon leaks, which was costly. However, since the new system was installed, there has been a loud banging noise in the HVAC lines leading upstairs when the temperature drops to around 50 degrees and the heater idles down. We were told by Rheem to replace the TXV, but a technician doubted it. The current system seems to have a non-bleed TXV causing the banging sound only in winter. We are looking for a Rheem distributor in San Antonio, TX, who can replace the part with a bleed-type valve to resolve the issue. Any information on where to get the part and who can assist in San Antonio would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Rosemary K. San Antonio, TX

Hello, We have a Rheem HVAC system installed in [redacted] to replace a previous model due to frequent issues with weak copper tubing/coils leaking freon. The new system, model RHLL/13PJL with serial number 143814E15/7693W[redacted]52, makes banging sounds during winter when the heating system idles, disturbing our sleep. Design Temp. from San Antonio installed it, but the issue remains despite multiple visits. We then engaged Jon Wayne Heating & Cooling for service and maintenance, but they couldn't resolve the problem either. The noise persists, prompting us to seek help from a Rheem Service Representative in the Austin/San Antonio area to address the recurring issue. We hope to resolve this ongoing problem without investing in a new system. Your assistance in connecting us with a reliable Rheem Rep. to resolve this issue would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Rosemary and John K. [redacted] Alpine Aster San Antonio, TX [redacted]

The gas company recently replaced the service meter outside and turned the gas off and back on. After the replacement, they verified gas was coming into the water heater. Initially, the water tank lit briefly but then went out and won't light at all now. Here are the details of the water heater: Serial Number: RHNG 1297A01168 Model Number: 21X40-7 Capacity: 40 Gallons Input BTUH: 34,[redacted] Gas Type: Natural Gas Gas Pressure (inches of water column): - Manifold: 4.0 - Max Inlet: 14.0 - Min Inlet: 5.0